SoHell

Old-fashioned markets share the area with newcomers like 37 Arts.

Photograph: Cinzia Reale-Castello

The neighborhood south of Hell’s Kitchen has more than its share of cheeky monikers: SoHell, Dirty 30s, NoMSG, Hellsea. All reflect the area’s reputation as little more than a carousel whose commuter-riders hop on and off around Penn Station and the Javits Center. It’s true, this is not the place for a leisurely walk with your tots unless your stroller is made by Hummer. But what the streets lack in charm, they make up for in practical enticements: cheap, authentic ethnic eats, a couple of 24-hour pharmacies and a decent flea market. Plus, locals can now gloat about staking their claim before the new Hudson Yards development brings buzz—and higher prices—to Eleventh Avenue.

What you’ll find
SoHell’s streets are chockablock with no-frills eateries like the Italian sandwich joint Manganaro Hero Boy (494 Ninth Ave, 212-947-7325), along with casually classy joints like the Market Café (496 Ninth Ave, 212-967-3892). Far from Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s, Ninth Avenue is a haven for old-school foodies, with plums from tip-to-tail butcher Esposito & Sons (500 Ninth Ave, 212-279-3298) and the International Grocery (543 Ninth Ave, 212-279-5514) to bakeries and fishmongers. Several arts organizations and venues have trickled in from the Theater District and Chelsea to set up shop, including Exit Art (475 Tenth Ave, 212-966-7745) and 37 Arts (450 W 37th, 646-731-3200). Every weekend, 39th Street between Ninth and Tenth Avenues is closed off to make room for antiques and furniture dealers, craft peddlers and racks of vintage clothes.

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