Ice, ice baby

Tally ho! Kids try a bevy of flavors before voing their favorites.

Photos: Beth Levendis

The oft-forgotten borough might not have a subway line, but when it comes to cool treats, Shaolin residents definitely have an inside track. Here, instead of slurping down just any sidewalk ice, parents and kids have their choice of three gourmet shoppes—LaRocca’s, and the chainlets Ralph’s and Uncle Louie G’s. But with so many choices at each spot (last time we visited Ralph’s, we spent a full ten minutes deciding between Peanut Butter Cookie Dough and Strawberry Cheesecake before settling on a scoop of each), it’s hard to know which store and flavor reigns supreme. So, armed with scoopers, spoons, ballots (yes, ballots) and an assortment from each company, we headed to P.S. 36 in Staten Island to ask the experts— a group of third-graders.

LaRocca’s Italian Ices and Pizzeria
At this 20-year-old family-owned pizza joint, ices range from traditional (Lemon) to nearly-over-the-top (Cream Cheese and Jelly). Nerds, a purple-colored ice with pieces of the namesake candy mixed in, proved staggeringly popular with our panel. “It’s the most refreshing thing I’ve ever had,” said Kari. Classmate Daniel agreed: “It’s very, very excellent. Now let me eat in peace!” Unfortunately, the store’s Rainbow Cookie concoction didn’t garner such impressive reviews. Nine-year-old Nicholas didn’t mince words: “It tastes like Play-Doh. Yuck.”489 Midland Ave at Kiswick St (718-979-8833, laroccasitalianices.com).

Ralph’s Famous Italian Ices
While franchises have opened around the city and surrounding areas in recent years, nothing says summer to Staten Islanders more than paying a visit to Ralph’s original Port Richmond location. The lines are long at this almost 60-year-old water- and creme-ice institution, but the goods are well worth the wait. Try Birthday Cake—yellow ice with pieces of pink frosting and colored sprinkles (“It’s so good, my taste buds are going berserk,” said Soner)—and Cotton Candy (“Yum. It’s just like eating the real thing,” said Jessica). The company’s Chocolate and Vanilla Chip ices also took top honors in the class’s blind taste test. Students raved about the Chocolate’s creaminess and the Vanilla Chip’s generous chip-to-ice ratio.501 Port Richmond Ave between LaForge Ave and Hooker Pl (718-448-0853, ralphsices.com; check website for other locations).

Uncle Louie G’s
After taking Brooklyn by storm back in 1999, this relative newbie has set up shop in all five boroughs. Although the flavor selection isn’t as exhaustive as at the other spots we visited, most of the kids agreed that Uncle’s cold stuff is delicious. “I love the jumbo chunks of cookie. Keep on selling this, because it’s great!” said Analise of the brand’s Vanilla Oreo flavor. An exception: The kids overwhelmingly gave Chocolate Jelly Ring a thumbs down. “It was too watery and really disgusting. And there was too much jelly,” said Rikki. But the students couldn’t get enough of Bubble Gum, a bright-blue ice with real pieces of chewing gum inside. “I can’t even describe in words how good it was,” said Taylor as she gobbled another spoonful. Looks like a trip to the dentist may be in her future.15 Brower Ct between Giffords Ln and Nelson Ave (718-605-0056, unclelouieg.com; check website for other locations).

Also in this issue:

• Ice-stravaganza
• Manhattan
• Brooklyn
• Queens
• Bronx
• Staten Island
• Cold hard facts
• Made in New York
• Ice, ice baby
• Fear-free desserts