Moustache Pitza

Photograph: Donna Rickles

The kids want pizza—again—but you want something more grown-up. You’ll find a happy compromise at the uptown branch of beloved Moustache Pitza. With its cozy copper tabletops and congenial service, this third location of the Middle Eastern mini-chain is a welcome addition to East Harlem.

On a recent Sunday evening, the place was much quieter than its downtown siblings typically are. Our friendly waitress thought we’d enjoy the comfy banquette along the back brick wall, which gives a view of the entire restaurant. Glasses of water appeared immediately, along with menus.

When ordering, don’t skimp on pitas; the puffed-up pillows are an ideal accompaniment to smoky, smooth baba ghanoush. The plain-sounding cheese, parsley and egg phyllo roll hides a decadent filling, a molten multiculti mix of mozzarella and feta cheese. My husband and I adored our “pitzas”: the signature Moustache with red peppers, caramelized onions and mozzarella, and the ground lamb lahambajin. The kid-approved tomato-and-cheese version is a pleasing near-relative of the Italian pizzeria staple.

The menu’s best value may be the pistachio ice cream. Four small, dense scoops fed the three of us with minimal squabbling. But what we most look forward to upon our return is another laid-back evening and a second helping of the milk flan muhalabia with red berry sauce—almost (though not quite) too pretty to eat.—Undercover Mother

1621 Lexington Ave between 101st and 102nd Sts (212-828-0030, moustachepitza.com). Average main course: $10.

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